Adirondack High Peaks

Hiking New York's Mountains

The Adirondack High Peaks region offers some
of the most spectacular hiking country in North
America. Although satellite imaging has changed the
count, traditionally there are 40 peaks in New York’s
Adirondack Mountains climbing 4,000 feet or more into
the heavens. Interestingly, you don’t have to climb
that high to appreciate the views.

Do day hiking and automobiles have much in common? Read on:

When entertainer Bill Cosby purchased his first Rolls Royce he was disappointed. “The beauty of a Rolls,” the comic noted, “is watching it drive down the road. You can’t do that when you’re inside it.”

The Adirondack High Peaks are like that Rolls Royce. True, there is great personal satisfaction climbing Marcy or any of the forty-odd other crests higher than 4,000 feet. And all Empire State hikers owe themselves at least one such climb. Indeed, it sometimes seems, every hiker in New York has decided to make that climb---all on the same mountain you’re on. The Adirondack High Peaks trails, to put a point on it, can be crowded.

And the fact is, you cannot truly appreciate the awe-inspiring beauty of the Adirondack High Peaks when you’re climbing one of them. Instead, you need to hike one of the lower trails, and view the peaks in all their rugged glory.

There are quite a few trails providing panoramas of the Adirondack High Peaks. Of them all, the Mt. Van Hoevenberg Trail is arguably the best. It receives only moderate usage; isn’t a particularly difficult climb (a 740 foot ascent in 2.15 miles) and brings 16 of the high peaks into sight, as well as providing a panoramic view of South Meadows, Lake Placid, the romantic Mount Jo/Heart Lake area, and, if you wish a longer hike, the Olympic bobsled and luge runs.

Originally called South Mountain, Van Hoevenberg was renamed in 1932 for Henry Van Hoevenberg, an early Adirondacks explorer and builder of the Adirondack Lodge. Technically speaking, Van Hoevenberg is a homocline---a landform that is quite steep on one side and relatively gentle on the other. The steep side is called the scarp slope, the gentle side the dip slope.

The Mt. Van Hoevenberg Trail ascends the scarp slope to the ridge line, then descends along the bobsled run. Most trekkers climb and descend on the scarp side. However, if you’ve never seen the Olympic area, you might consider extending your walk another one and two thirds miles to take it in.

If you choose the longer option, two vehicles make sense, rather than retracing your footsteps.

The trailhead, marked with blue DEC disks, is found on South Meadow Rd., about a quarter mile from Heart Lake (Loj) Rd. This puts it right in the Adirondak Loj’s backyard, so you want to stop there first to check trail conditions, pick-up last minute supplies, and, if you’re not already a member, join the Adirondack Mountain Club.

The trail is basically level for the first mile. From the parking area at trailhead it starts on an old road blocked by a bar gate. At just under a mile, the trail dips, crosses a small stream, and starts climbing. At 1.58 miles, after passing under low cliffs, you’ll come to a height of land.

From that point the trail climbs the west ridge of Mt. Van Hoevenberg. At 2.06 miles you’ll come to the first open ledges---one of the most scenic climaxes in the East where many of the Adirondack High Peaks are laid out before you.

To the southeast are the Gothics. To the northwest is the McKenzie Range. Directly in view are Saddleback, Basin, Phelps, Marcy (New York’s highest mountain), Gray, and Colden mountains towering above South Meadows. Further to the right you’ll spot Avalanche Pass and Mountain, Wright and Algonquin Peaks, Indian Pass, and Wallface, Nye Mountain, and tiny Mt. Jo, with Heart Lake hidden behind it.

There’s a poignant story about those last two. In 1877, that same Henry Van Hoevenberg and his fiancée Josephine Scofield climbed Mt. Marcy. From there they chose a site for their future home.

Far off they saw a tiny, heart-shaped lake, which they decided would be the spot. The small mountain nearby was named Mt. Jo after Josephine---a fitting wedding present indeed.

Sadly, Josephine died within the year. Van Hoevenberg went on to build the original Adirondack Lodge on the Heart Lake site, but it burned in the great forest fire of 1903. After a couple of ownership changes, it was acquired by the Adirondack Mountain Club, and the complex became known as Adirondak Loj. That spelling is correct. How come? Well, that’s s story for another time.

Also in view from this first ledge is the village of Lake Placid and the Olympic ski jump, below the McKenzie Range. And way off to the right are the Plains of Abraham.

If you time your walk right there are low-bush blueberries growing all about this ledge. A Sierra cupful makes a great snack, or dessert if you choose to eat lunch here.

Just above this ledge there is another; then a third and fourth. Each of them provides a slightly different angle, and brings new vistas—and additional Adirondack High Peaks such as Porter and Giant---into view.

If you’re continuing on to the bobsled run, turn left at the summit ledge. The trail begins descending through some fairly thick woods, and, .15 miles from the top, joins an old road that had been the original start of the run. Half a mile further the trail connects with the head of the current run. After that, follow the spectator walkway down to the parking lot.

One view of the Olympic area is enough for most people, which is why the majority of hikers return to South Meadow the way they came.