Crankbaits: Bass Fishing Techniques

Crankbaits, for some inexplicable reason, remain
one of the least understood fishing lures. Everybody
throws them, at one time or another. Yet, the majority
of fishermen do not seem to understand how to maximize
their effectiveness.

It never ceases to amaze me, the number of anglers who do not understand these fishing lures. It’s not like that haven’t been given the same study and attention to design as other baits. And the manufacturers have spared no effort to teach fishermen how best to use them. But, judging from the way most fishermen use crankbaits, it’s all fallen on deaf ears.

Typically a basser will choose a crank based on its rated retrieve depth. He’ll cast it out, then burn it back as fast as he can turn the handle on his high-ratio reel. And then he wonders why nothing is hitting.

For starters, let’s look at the matter of depth. Crankbaits are tested using 12-lb line, with the rod held at a 45 degree angle. Significantly heavier lines can affect that dramatically. A bit designed to run at six feet, for instance, can have that depth cut almost in half on 20 lb line.

So the first problem in our scenario is that the fisherman is not retrieving the bait where he thinks it is. You can increase the depth, by the way, by lowering the rod tip. Ultimately, if your crankbaits aren’t getting deep enough, try submerging your rod tip a foot or so into the water.

But even if the depth were right it wouldn’t matter. When you burn in a crankbait you overturn it, and it comes back to you not with a wobbling, bait-fish-like movement, but in a series of spiraling loops as it spins through the water.

The proper retrieval speed for crankbaits can be achieved simply. You reel just as fast as it takes to feel the lure pulling back. That’s the ideal speed.

But let’s say everything goes right. The bait is swimming at the right depth, and the right speed, and a bass takes it. More bass, more big bass, have been missed by anglers at that point than by all other methods combines.

When a bass first hits the worst thing you can do is strike right then. Instead, when using crankbaits you want to pause long enough for the fish to turn and head away from you. Wait, in fact, until you feel the weight of the fish. Then strike. It takes discipline to do this, but if you train yourself in that technique your hook-up rate will increase exponentially.

This pause-before-you-strike is why many experienced crankers prefer rods that are either all fiberglass, or which have a fiberglass tip. The softness of the glass enforces a slower strike rate.

One more thing before you start fishing a new crankbait. It has to be tuned. Many times they do not track properly from the factory, angling to the right or left. There are times when this can be an advantage (such as when trying to work the bait under a boat dock or other surface structure). But in general you want crankbaits to track in a straight line.

To tune the bait flip it a short way into the water, where you can watch it’s action. Start retrieving. If it isn’t tracking properly you can adjust its path by gently bending the eye in the direction you want the bait to move. For instance, if it’s pulling to the right, bend the eye to the left.

Go easy, though. A little movement of the eye goes a long way.

Most of the time you’ll be retrieving just by casting out and reeling back, sometimes with a stop-and-go action to entice a hit. That is reel the bait towards you for a few feet, then stop for a second or six. This action simulates a baitfish in trouble, and appeals to the predacious nature of bass.

There are a slew of specialized techniques you can use, however, to maximize the effectiveness of crankbaits.

As noted, when fishing docks and other surface structure, you might intentionally set the bait out of tune. Let’s say you’re fishing the left-hand side of a dock. Bend the eye so the bait runs to the right. Cast towards shore, parallel to the dock, and start your retrieve. The bait will then run under the dock, in the shade where bass are likely to be.

When bass are down deep, on the bottom, you can often get them to hit on crankbaits by taking a tip from bait fishermen. Tie your main line to a three-way swivel. Attach a weight to the second swivel ring. Then tie a short leader, about 16 to 20 inches, to the third ring. Tie your crankbait to that leader.

Cast out and let the weight settle on the bottom. Then start retrieving in a series of hops and slow drags, pausing between movements. Each time you move the weight the crankbait will dive towards the bottom. Then, when you pause, it slowly starts to rise. Few bass can resist hitting that helpless baitfish struggling to regain its equilibrium.

Most fishermen choose crankbaits based on the depth they want to fish them. That is, if they’re fishing shallow water they choose a shallow diver. For deep water they go with a deep diver. But sometimes reversing that can be effective.

For instance, try using a deep diver when fishing a sloping shoreline. Cast as close to shore as you can and retrieve the bait until you feel it trying to dig into the bottom. Stop the retrieve and let the bait float to the surface. Then repeat the action.

Continue this stair-step retrieve until you can no longer feel the bottom, then retrieve the bait normally.

What happens is that the bait, kicking up all that ruckus on the bottom, often attracts bass. Sometimes they hit while the bait is doing its dance. Other times they just watch, and, when you start the final retrieve, hit the baitfish that is escaping them.