Fly Fishing Basics

An Introduction to Fly Fishing

Fly fishing basics can seem intimidating to the
novice angler. Truth is, it's not so complicated.
If you can count, you can learn to flycast.

We were standing on the shores of Rainbow Lake , some classmates and me, in New York’s Adirondack Mountains. Out on the lake, maybe 60 feet from shore, an elderly couple were fly fishing from an Adirondack Guide Boat---perhaps the greatest small craft ever designed.

One after another they’d lift the fly, make a forward cast, and move it an inch or two down the shoreline. Periodically the old man would give a whisper touch to the oars, keeping the boat in line. All of it was poetry put in motion. Fly fishing basics at their finest.

More thinking out loud than anything else I said, “I’d give my left arm to be able to do that.” One of my buddies responded, “Nah! You need your left hand for line control.” To which I replied, “huh?”

They’d all grown up with flyrods in their hands, and couldn’t believe I didn’t know how. “Heck,” I told them, “I can barely walk and chew gum at the same time. There’s no way I can do anything like that.”

As it turns out, I could do it. Once I’d learned fly fishing basics it was easy. In fact, as my buddies taught me nearly half a century ago, anybody who can count to three can fly fish.

Many anglers would like to give fly fishing a try. But they self-intimidate themselves, as I had done. There’s no reason for that. Fly fishing is different, no doubt about it. But different merely means different. Not harder or easier. Not better or worse. Just different. Once you’ve spent some time learning fly fishing basics that difference becomes something to celebrate.

Conventional tackle, whether it’s spinning, spin-casting, or revolving spool, uses a heavy weight to pull a light line off the reel. One of the key elements of fly fishing basics is that the line itself is the weight, and it carries a light---literally featherlight---lure. That’s the only substantial difference between the two types of fishing.

Obviously, that difference will determine methods and techniques. The lines, in fact, determine everything else about fly fishing. Once you’ve absorbed some fly fishing basics and picked up some basic fly fishing tips it all gets more fun.

Fly line is rated by weight, from a theoretical #0 to a theoretical #15. In practical terms, only #1-#12 are readily available. The higher the number, the greater the weight.

Fly fishing line also come with various tapers, such as “double taper,” “Weight forward,” and “level.” This describes the shape of the line diameter from its midpoint forward. Level fly fishing lines do not change diameter. Weight forward carry most of their weight in the first 30 feet. Double tapers thin down in both directions from a thick middle.

Level fly fishing line, although considerably less expensive, are harder to cast and control. Go for a tapered line instead. Yeah, they’re pricey. But, unlike mono, they aren’t replaced very frequently.

Finally, fly fishing line come in various densities that let them either float or sink at predetermined rates. Sinking lines come in two configurations: full sink, and sink tip. Fly fishing basics means floating lines - about 99% of fly fishing is done with these lines, so you don’t need to be in a rush to acquire sinking lines.

All of this information is contained in a simple product coding. “DT7F,” for instance, describes a #7 weight, double taper, floating line. “WF6S,” would be a #6 weight forward sinking line.

Best bet for a beginner is to buy a complete kit, with fly fishing rod, fly fishing reel, and fly fishing line balanced. Several rod makers offer them, and the kits usually include some fly fishing basics: an instruction booklet, backing line, and even a fly or three to get you started.

A mid-weight outfit, something like #6, makes the most sense. This will allow you the greatest flexibility in species sought and types of water to fish. You should get this with a weight forward floating fly fishing line, which also provides the greatest flexibility.

With very rare exception, the fly fishing reel is only used to store line. You do not reel in a fish with fly fishing gear. Instead you play him with the rod, and use the reel only to hold line as you gather it in. Most times you won’t even use it for that. Instead, as you strip fline in, you let it drop at your feet. Only big, tough fish are played from the reel.

Casting consists of lifting the line in an accelerated motion, letting it straighten out behind you, then casting it forward again before it drops to the ground. It sounds, and looks, complicated, but is just a matter of feel and timing.

The casting effort is like using a hammer to drive a nail into a wall. Do not snap the line back and forth. Instead, lift and accelerate at the same time.

It helps if you envision a clock face next to you. Fly casting is a movement that exists between ten and two o’clock.

Here’s some fly fishing basics to get you started:

Lay out about 20 feet of fly fishing line on the grass. Point the rod at the line. Imagine a tower, with an imprisoned princess, at the 12 o’clock position. In order to rescue her, you have to throw the line up to her hand.

Sharply lift the rod with an accelerating movement, literally throwing the line straight upwards. Stop the rod short at the noon position. Chances are it will drift back somewhat. Do not let it go past the one o’clock position. The line will form a large loop as you lift it. As this line straightens behind you (you can watch it happen), accelerate the rod forward, stopping short at the 10 o’clock position. Let the line settle to the ground.

Congratulations! You’ve just made your first cast with a flyline.

At first it may help to stand sideways, and actually watch the line. You’ll see why it’s important to check the rod at the right positions. You’ll also find that a rhythmic count, 1-2-3-4 assures your timing. Start to count as you lift the line. At 12 o’clock you should be at “two.” Pause for the “three” count to let the line straightens. Start your forward cast at “four.” That’s all it takes.

Once you’re comfortable with your casting, add a leader to the line, and tie on a small piece of yarn to simulate a fly. You’ll immediately note a difference in feel and timing, but should have little trouble adjusting to it.

There are many specialized casts used by experienced fly anglers; including roll casts, up- and down-steam curve casts, mends, and aerial mends. For now don’t concern yourself with any of them. A simple forward cast will serve your needs.

Most beginners are concerned about casting distance. That’s an unnecessary worry. Virtually all stream fish, and most flat water fish, are hooked, with any tackle, within 20 feet. So that simple, short forward cast is not a handicap.